Questions to ask
1. Are you certified as a plumber with Washington State Labor & Industries (L&I), is your company licensed as a plumbing contractor, and can I see the numbers?
Why it matters: In Washington, individuals who perform plumbing work must hold the appropriate plumber certification through the Washington State Department of Labor & Industries (L&I) — for example journey-level (PL01) or a specialty certificate — or work as a registered trainee under a certified plumber. Companies that advertise, bid, or perform plumbing work must hold an L&I plumbing contractor license and employ a designated certified plumber for the scope of work. Ask for the individual plumber certification number and the company plumbing contractor license number, then verify status through the official L&I Verify lookup before you authorize work. Also ask for proof of liability insurance and workers’ compensation if they bring helpers — uninsured injury or property damage becomes your problem. “We’re bonded” is not a substitute for verifying Washington L&I credentials and insurance certificates.
2. Will the estimate be written, itemized, and binding — or is it a rough range?
Why it matters: Verbal quotes invite surprise charges, especially when a basement wall or crawlspace is opened, a camera finds collapsed cast iron, or rain-driven backup reveals multiple failed sections of pipe. An itemized written estimate (labor, parts, trip charge, permit fees if included, disposal) lets you compare Seattle plumbers apples-to-apples. Ask what is excluded, how change orders are priced, and whether the price holds for a defined period. Get the company name, L&I plumber / plumbing contractor numbers, and estimate date on the document.
3. Who will actually do the work — you, an employee, or a subcontractor?
Why it matters: Some companies dispatch less experienced techs or subcontractors after a sales visit. Knowing who shows up affects quality, warranty responsibility, and whether the person on-site is covered by the company’s insurance and holds a valid Washington plumber certification or trainee registration. Ask whether trainees work unsupervised on your job and who is responsible if a sub’s work fails. For larger jobs (repipe, side-sewer or lateral work, remodel rough-in, basement leak repair), confirm a properly certified plumber remains accountable for the finished work.
4. What is your warranty on parts and labor, and what voids it?
Why it matters: A clear warranty (duration, what it covers, how to claim) signals confidence. Ask whether manufacturer warranties transfer, whether DIY follow-up work voids their labor warranty, and who you call if a valve or water heater fails six months later. Get warranty terms in writing with the final invoice — especially important after Seattle’s wet winters stress aging drains, in older galvanized systems that may fail again nearby, and where hillside or clay soils stress buried laterals after the original repair.
5. Do you pull required permits for this work, and is that included in the price?
Why it matters: Installing, relocating, or changing plumbing or gas piping systems in Seattle generally requires permits and inspection through Public Health—Seattle & King County (Plumbing & Gas Program / Public Health Permit Center) — not Seattle Department of Construction and Inspections (SDCI) alone. SDCI handles many construction, electrical, and mechanical permits; the Seattle Plumbing Code is enforced by Public Health. Work on the private side sewer (the lateral outside the building to the public main connection) typically needs a Seattle Public Utilities (SPU) side sewer permit (SPU took over side-sewer permitting from SDCI as of October 1, 2025). Right-of-way excavation or staging may also need a Seattle Department of Transportation (SDOT) permit. If you are in a nearby suburb (Bellevue, Redmond, Kirkland, Renton, and many other King County cities), your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) rules differ — Public Health’s plumbing jurisdiction for permits covers Seattle, Clyde Hill, and unincorporated King County; other cities use their own building departments. Pros who skip permits “to save you money” leave you exposed if something fails, if insurance questions arise, or when you sell the home. Ask who submits each permit, who pays AHJ fees, and whether inspection scheduling is included. Confirm your exact jurisdiction before work starts.
6. How do you price emergency or after-hours calls?
Why it matters: Emergency rates can be substantially higher than daytime rates — and Seattle’s long rainy seasons make sewer backups and flooded basements real after-hours emergencies, while a failed water heater or burst supply line is urgent any season. Occasional freezes also catch poorly insulated exterior or crawlspace runs. Get the after-hours multiplier, minimum call-out fee, diagnosis fee, and whether that fee applies to the repair before you authorize a night visit. Ask how they prioritize true emergencies (active flooding, no water, gas smell — call the utility/emergency services for gas) versus next-morning jobs. Clear pricing up front beats arguing over a bill at 2 a.m. after an atmospheric river.
7. Given Seattle metro housing stock, how will you assess older Craftsman and mid-century homes, hillside/clay stress on buried laterals, and water-heater condition before quoting a full fix?
Why it matters: Pre-war and mid-century neighborhoods (Capitol Hill, Ballard, Queen Anne, Central District, West Seattle, Wallingford, and similar) and Craftsman bungalows, Seattle boxes, and mid-century ranches often still have aging galvanized supply, cast-iron drains, or mixed-metal transitions. Suburban stock in Bellevue, Redmond, Kirkland, Renton, and Shoreline may differ in materials, foundation types, and local code history. Hillside lots, clay soils, and wet winters can stress buried supply or sewer laterals; many homes have basements or crawlspaces where leaks show up first. A low bid that only patches the visible symptom can miss the larger condition. Ask whether they will check accessible shutoffs, pressure, water heater condition, cleanouts, and nearby piping; whether they recommend section repair vs repipe or lateral options; and how they price exploratory work if plaster, flooring, or soil must open. Require a stop-and-call process before extra work begins.
8. How do you handle heavy rain and sewer backups, cleanouts, freeze risk, and storm-related issues?
Why it matters: Seattle’s wet season routinely overloads older laterals and combined or storm-affected systems — basement backups, clogged cleanouts, and root-intruded cast iron are common calls. Occasional cold snaps freeze poorly insulated supply lines — especially exterior-wall runs, sill-plate and crawlspace sections, and garage hose bibs. Ask whether they camera or snake main lines, locate cleanouts, discuss backwater valves or cleanout access where relevant, and distinguish plumbing drains and private side sewers from yard drainage or municipal main problems so the right party owns the fix. Knowing your cleanout and main shutoff locations (often in the basement, crawlspace, or near the front foundation in older Seattle buildings) — and having a plan before a multi-day rain event — matters as much as the emergency call itself. For backup- or freeze-damaged interiors, clarify what is plumbing repair versus when you need water-damage specialists.
9. How do you handle cleanup, floor protection, and any utility coordination (for example Seattle Public Utilities) at a high level?
Why it matters: Plumbing jobs track water and debris through finished homes — and Seattle basements, crawlspaces, and older plaster walls make good floor protection and drying habits pay off. Pros who bring drop cloths, shoe covers, and a cleanup plan reduce secondary damage. If the job involves meter-side issues, private water-line questions, or side-sewer work that may touch Seattle Public Utilities’ rules (SPU generally owns the water service in the right-of-way; property owners are generally responsible for the private water line from the city union to the building, and for the private side sewer up to but not including the connection to the public main), ask what they handle versus what you must arrange with SPU or your suburban water/sewer utility. Stay general: the plumber should explain their process; verify any utility-side requirements with the utility itself rather than relying on marketing claims.
10. What brand or grade of fixtures and parts do you typically install, and can I choose?
Why it matters: Cheap valves and supply lines fail early — faster still on aging galvanized systems or under wet-season backup stress. Ask about options (builder-grade vs mid-tier), whether they will install customer-supplied fixtures, and how that affects warranty. For water heaters, ask about capacity, fuel type (including tankless where relevant), anode/flush recommendations, expansion tanks or recirculation if in scope, and whether basement, garage, or crawlspace placement needs moisture and freeze protection in Seattle weather. Get model numbers on the written estimate when equipment is part of the job.
11. Can you provide recent Seattle-area references for similar jobs?
Why it matters: A water heater swap in Bellevue is different from a cast-iron drain repair in a Capitol Hill Craftsman or a side-sewer repair on a West Seattle hillside lot. Ask for recent local references for comparable work, how long they have served Seattle and nearby Eastside / South Sound suburbs, and whether you can see photos of finished jobs. References beat star ratings alone when you need punctuality, permit follow-through, and a fix that lasted through a Pacific Northwest wet season.
Red flags
- Cash-only demand, or pressure to pay the full amount before work starts.
- No written estimate, or vague “it depends” pricing with no cap or change-order process.
- Cannot or will not provide a Washington L&I plumber certification (and plumbing contractor license for the company) you can verify, or an insurance certificate.
- Discourages permits “to save you money” on work that typically needs inspection.
- Dramatically lower bid with no explanation of scope, parts grade, or permit exclusions.
- Arrives unmarked, or wants you to leave the house while they work with no identification.
- Pushes a full repipe, lateral / side-sewer replacement, or water heater swap without diagnosing the actual failure or showing you options.
Next-step checklist
- Verify the plumber’s Washington L&I certification and the company’s plumbing contractor license via the L&I Verify lookup before hiring.
- Get at least two written, itemized estimates for the same scope (parts, labor, permits, exclusions).
- Confirm liability insurance (ask for a certificate with your address if the job is large) and workers’ comp if helpers are on-site.
- Clarify your AHJ (Public Health—Seattle & King County for Seattle plumbing/gas permits; SPU for side sewers; suburban city building departments elsewhere) and whether permits/inspections are included.
- Agree in writing on warranty length, payment schedule, and the stop-and-call change-order process.
- Locate and test your main water shutoff and cleanout if accessible (often basement / crawlspace / front foundation in older Seattle buildings); photograph the problem area before work begins.
- Keep receipts, permit numbers, and the final invoice for future buyers or warranty claims.