Questions to ask before you hire an HVAC contractor in Miami
In Miami, air conditioning is a year-round necessity, not a summer luxury. Miami-Dade County runs a Heat Season protocol from May 1 to October 31, and the County says the number of days above 90°F has climbed from 84 to 133 a year since 1970. Heat plus humidity means an AC system has to dry the air as well as cool it, and a badly sized or badly drained system can leave a home clammy and prone to mold. Miami-Dade is also one of Florida’s two High-Velocity Hurricane Zone counties, so outdoor units have to be anchored to resist hurricane winds, and parts of the county are flood hazard areas. Use these questions to compare Miami-area HVAC contractors on a verified Florida license, honest sizing for humidity, storm-ready installation, the right permits, and a written scope, not just who can come out today.
Questions to ask
1. What is your Florida air-conditioning or mechanical contractor license number, is it certified or registered, and can I see it?
Why it matters: Florida’s Construction Industry Licensing Board, part of the Department of Business and Professional Regulation (DBPR), licenses air-conditioning and mechanical contractors (DBPR Construction Industry). Under Florida law, a Class A air-conditioning contractor is unlimited in size, a Class B is limited to 25 tons of cooling and 500,000 Btu of heating in any one system, a Class C is limited to servicing and is no longer issued to new applicants, and a mechanical contractor can do the same HVAC work plus additional piping (Florida Statutes 489.105). A certified contractor (occupation code beginning with “C”) can contract anywhere in Florida; a registered contractor (code beginning with “R”) can contract only in the local jurisdictions where they are registered. Florida requires the license number on every bid, proposal, contract, and advertisement, and on each building permit application (Florida Statutes 489.119). Look up the license, its status, and any discipline with DBPR’s Verify a License search, and make sure the business name on your contract matches the licensed business. The City of Miami Building Department keeps each contractor’s qualifier license, business tax receipt (BTR), and liability and workers’ comp information on file before it will issue easy permits (City of Miami Easy Permits). Ask for a current certificate of insurance too.
2. If the new system needs a new circuit, a bigger breaker, or panel work, who will do it, and do they hold a Florida electrical contractor license?
Why it matters: Florida law spells out how far an air-conditioning or mechanical contractor can go on the electrical side. They may replace, disconnect, or reconnect power wiring on the line or load side of the existing dedicated disconnect on single-phase systems, repair or replace power wiring, disconnects, breakers, or fuses for dedicated HVAC circuits (with a circuit breaker lock), and handle low-voltage HVAC control wiring, but their license otherwise excludes electrical power wiring (Florida Statutes 489.105). So if a larger heat pump, added heat strips, or a relocated unit means a new circuit or panel work, ask who the licensed electrical contractor is and whether that electrical permit is in the quote. In unincorporated Miami-Dade, an exact A/C change-out of the same electrical amperage doesn’t need a separate electrical permit, though it still needs a mechanical permit (Miami-Dade permit exemptions). The City of Miami lists “A/C change out” among its electrical easy permits (City of Miami Easy Permits), so ask which permits your address and job need.
3. Which technicians on my job hold EPA Section 608 certification, and are they trained on the newer A2L refrigerants?
Why it matters: EPA requires technicians who maintain, service, repair, or dispose of equipment that could release refrigerant to be Section 608 certified; apprentices are exempt only while closely and continually supervised by a certified technician (EPA Section 608 technician certification requirements). Since Jan. 1, 2025, EPA rules have limited new residential air conditioners and heat pumps to refrigerants with a global warming potential under 700 (EPA Technology Transitions) (older R-410A equipment components made or imported before Jan. 1, 2025 can still be installed), so many newer systems use A2L (lower-flammability) refrigerants such as R-454B or R-32, which EPA lists as acceptable only under specific use conditions (EPA SNAP) and which have their own handling and installation requirements. Ask who on the crew is certified, whether they have installed the refrigerant your proposed system uses, and how they will recover refrigerant from the old unit. If your system still runs on R-22, ask plainly whether a repair still makes sense or whether replacement is the honest answer.
4. Will you run a Manual J load calculation for my home, and how will the system you propose control humidity, not just temperature?
Why it matters: The Florida Building Code, Residential calls for heating and cooling equipment to be sized under ACCA Manual S (or another approved method) based on loads calculated with ACCA Manual J or another approved method (FBC Residential, Chapter 14). In a humid climate, sizing matters twice: ENERGY STAR explains that oversized units run in short bursts that don’t last long enough for moisture to condense on the coil and drain away, while right-sized units dehumidify better (ENERGY STAR right-sized AC fact sheet). EPA advises keeping indoor humidity below 60 percent, ideally 30 to 50 percent, to discourage mold (EPA mold and moisture guide). Ask for the load calculation in writing, how it accounts for your windows, shade, insulation, and duct location, and why the proposed tonnage isn’t simply a match for the old unit. Ask whether a variable-speed or multistage system, a dehumidification setting, or a separate dehumidifier makes sense for your home, and how they will confirm humidity after installation.
5. What SEER2 rating, heat pump or straight-cool system, and matched indoor and outdoor units are you proposing, and can I see the AHRI certificate?
Why it matters: Florida is in DOE’s southern region, where split-system central air conditioners must meet a higher regional minimum efficiency than in northern states; heat pumps follow the national standard (DOE regional standards Q&A). DOE also says a contractor can replace only the outdoor unit if that model is certified in a combination that meets the regional standard, that a homeowner isn’t liable if a contractor installs a noncompliant system, and that you may be able to get a noncompliant system replaced with a compliant one. Ask for the AHRI certificate for the exact indoor coil or air handler and outdoor unit combination being installed, which FPL also requires for its rebate (FPL Residential HVAC program standards). Most Miami homes need far more cooling than heating, so ask whether a heat pump or a straight-cool system with electric heat strips fits your home, how often you would actually use the heat, and how each option affects your FPL bill. Higher SEER2 can cut cooling costs, but ask the contractor to show the trade-off rather than just upsell the top tier.
6. How will you anchor the outdoor unit for hurricane winds, which Miami-Dade NOA or engineered detail will you use, and is my home in a flood zone?
Why it matters: The Florida Building Code, 8th edition (2023) (the 9th edition takes effect Dec. 31, 2026), defines the High-Velocity Hurricane Zone as Broward and Miami-Dade counties (FBC definition), and it sets the HVHZ design wind speeds used in structural calculations (FBC Building, Chapter 16). Florida’s mechanical code requires mechanical equipment, appliances, and supports exposed to wind to be designed and installed to resist those wind pressures, or installed on rated stands, platforms, curbs or tie-downs that are deemed to comply (FBC Mechanical 301.15; FBC Building 1620.1). Tie-down systems for condensing units can be covered by a Miami-Dade Notice of Acceptance (NOA); for example, one current NOA for mechanical-unit tie-down clips for grade and rooftop applications says it was designed to comply with the Florida Building Code, including the HVHZ, and requires a copy of the entire NOA to be available at the job site for the Building Official (Miami-Dade NOA 25-1205.04). You can search approvals in Miami-Dade’s Product Control search. Ask which NOA or engineered detail applies to your unit, pad or stand, or roof, and whether the old anchors will be reused. If your home is in a flood hazard area, the code requires mechanical equipment to sit at or above the required flood elevation unless it is designed to resist flooding (FBC Mechanical 301.16); check your flood zone on FEMA’s Flood Map Service Center and ask whether the condenser should be raised on a stand or platform.
7. Where is the air handler, and how will you protect against condensate overflows, water damage, and mold?
Why it matters: Miami AC systems pull a lot of water out of the air, and that water has to go somewhere. Where an overflow could damage the building, the Florida Building Code, Residential requires a secondary drain or auxiliary drain pan for each cooling coil, using one of several approved methods: an auxiliary pan with its own drain, an overflow drain line, or a water-level detection device that shuts the system off, and condensate pumps in attics and other uninhabitable spaces must shut the equipment down if the pump fails (FBC Residential, Chapter 14). Florida’s mechanical code also requires condensate drain lines that can be cleared without cutting the pipe (FBC Mechanical 307.2.5). Ask where the primary and secondary drains will discharge, what overflow protection they will install, and how you can clear the drain line yourself. EPA advises keeping AC drip pans clean and drain lines flowing, and warns against running an HVAC system you suspect is contaminated with mold (EPA mold and moisture guide). If the air handler or ducts are in a hot attic, ask whether they will inspect and seal duct leaks, check insulation on ducts and the suction line, and look for sweating or rust around the unit, and whether any mold they find needs a separate remediation professional.
8. Which permit does my job need in my city, who pulls it, and is the inspection included?
Why it matters: Miami-Dade is made up of the unincorporated county plus many cities with their own building departments, so the answer depends on your address. In unincorporated Miami-Dade, a mechanical permit is required for an A/C change-out; replacing a window unit is exempt, and some repairs by a licensed contractor, such as duct repair or replacing a coil, compressor, or refrigerant piping inside the equipment, don’t need a permit (Miami-Dade permit exemptions; Miami-Dade mechanical permits). The same County page notes that Florida’s new small-project permit exemption that started July 1, 2026 (House Bill 803) does not cover mechanical or electrical work. In the City of Miami, the Building Department lists A/C change-outs among its electrical easy permits, which licensed, qualified contractors in good standing can get online without plan review (City of Miami Easy Permits); ask whether your change-out also needs a mechanical permit. Miami-Dade requires a mechanical permit for an exact change-out. The City’s permit-exempt list covers only portable units, minor repairs, duct repair, and similar work, not a system replacement (City of Miami work exempt from permit). If you live in Miami Beach, Coral Gables, Hialeah, or another city, ask that city’s building department. Ask the contractor to pull the permit in their company’s name, include permit fees in the quote, and schedule the final inspection, and hold final payment until it passes.
9. Are you an FPL Participating Independent Contractor, and does my system qualify for FPL’s A/C rebate?
Why it matters: If Florida Power & Light (FPL) is your electric utility, it currently offers an instant A/C rebate through its Residential HVAC program, but only when an FPL-approved Participating Independent Contractor (PIC) does the installation (FPL A/C rebate). Under FPL’s program standards, the PIC must be a licensed Florida mechanical or air-conditioning contractor, the rebate must appear as an itemized credit on the PIC’s invoice, and the new system must be a complete, AHRI-certified replacement of the condenser, blower, and evaporator coil that beats the federal SEER2 minimum by FPL’s margin; window units and single-zone mini-splits don’t qualify, and a system that already got a rebate in the past two years usually can’t get another. FPL also says a rebate is not confirmation that the system is right for your home or that the work was done properly (FPL Residential HVAC program standards). Ask whether the contractor is a current PIC, whether the quoted system qualifies, and get any promised rebate in writing on the invoice. If another utility serves your home, ask it directly about programs. The federal Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit (25C) ended for equipment placed in service after Dec. 31, 2025 (IRS), so a system installed in 2026 does not qualify for it; be wary of any quote that still counts a federal tax credit. Program rules and funding change, so verify current terms directly with FPL before you sign.
10. What does the written contract include: model numbers, AHRI match, tie-downs, drains, permits, warranties, and the Florida lien notice?
Why it matters: A good quote lists the exact indoor and outdoor model numbers and AHRI certificate, SEER2 rating, thermostat or controls, line set, pad or stand and hurricane tie-downs, condensate drains and overflow protection, any duct work, electrical work and who does it, permit fees, and disposal of the old equipment. Ask how surprises like corroded drain pans, rotted platforms, moldy ducts, or a tight attic will be handled, and require a stop-and-call change-order process before extra work. For direct contracts above a small dollar threshold on homes with up to four units, Florida law requires a Construction Lien Law notice in the contract, which warns that unpaid subcontractors and suppliers can place a lien on your property even if you paid your contractor, and recommends getting a written release of lien from anyone who sent you a “Notice to Owner” before you pay (Florida Statutes 713.015). Get the manufacturer warranty and the contractor’s labor warranty in writing separately, and confirm who registers the equipment so the manufacturer warranty applies.
11. How do you handle no-cooling calls during Heat Season and after a hurricane, and can you give me recent Miami-area references?
Why it matters: Miami-Dade County warns that extreme heat raises the risk of heat exhaustion, heat stroke, and heart attacks, and it activates Heat Season protocols from May through October (Miami-Dade extreme heat). A failed AC in August is a health problem, especially for older adults, young children, and anyone with medical conditions, and after a storm every HVAC company is booked at once. Ask what response time looks like for existing customers in peak season and after a hurricane, what after-hours and weekend rates apply, whether a maintenance plan actually moves you up the list, and what an annual tune-up includes, such as cleaning the coil and flushing the condensate drain. Ask whether they will inspect a unit before you restart it after a storm or flooding. Then ask for two or three recent local references for similar homes, such as a closet air handler in a Brickell condo, an attic system in a Kendall ranch house, or a raised condenser in a flood-prone neighborhood. References tell you about punctuality, cleanup, and whether the system was set up right the first time, which star ratings alone often miss.
Red flags
No Florida license number on the bid or ads, or the license doesn’t show as current and active in DBPR’s Verify a License search.
A registered (“R”) license from another county or city when you live outside that jurisdiction.
Quotes a replacement size over the phone or by matching the old unit, with no load calculation and no plan for humidity.
Can’t produce an AHRI certificate for the matched indoor and outdoor units, or proposes swapping only the outdoor unit without explaining the match.
Vague about how the outdoor unit will be anchored for hurricane winds, or can’t name the NOA or engineered detail.
Offers a lower price to skip the permit, or asks you to pull it as an owner-builder.
Runs a new circuit or does panel work without a licensed electrical contractor.
No secondary drain, overflow pan, or float switch planned for an air handler above a ceiling or in a closet.
Vague about which refrigerant the new system uses or who on the crew is EPA 608 certified.
Promises an FPL rebate but isn’t a current Participating Independent Contractor, or the rebate isn’t an itemized credit on the invoice.
Still counts the expired federal 25C credit in the price.
No model numbers, no permit or electrical scope, no Construction Lien Law notice, and no written labor warranty in the contract.
Next-step checklist
Look up each contractor on DBPR’s Verify a License search and confirm the license type (air-conditioning or mechanical), status, and certified vs. registered.
Get at least two written quotes for the same scope, with model numbers, AHRI certificate, SEER2 rating, and electrical, permit, tie-down, and disposal work listed.
Ask each contractor to share their load calculation and explain how the system will control humidity.
Ask which Miami-Dade NOA or engineered detail covers the outdoor unit’s anchoring, and check your flood zone on FEMA’s Flood Map Service Center.
Confirm how condensate overflow will be prevented and how you can clear the drain line.
Confirm who handles any new circuit or panel work and whether they hold a Florida electrical contractor license.
Confirm the contractor pulls the permit for your city (City of Miami, unincorporated Miami-Dade, or your municipality) in their name and schedules the final inspection.
If you’re counting on FPL’s A/C rebate, confirm the contractor is a current PIC and the system qualifies, and get the credit itemized on the invoice.
Read the Construction Lien Law notice in your contract and collect lien releases from anyone who sends a Notice to Owner before you pay.
Agree in writing on equipment placement, warranty terms, payment schedule, and a stop-and-call change-order process; hold final payment until inspection passes.
Keep the permit records, NOA or tie-down documentation, AHRI certificate, warranty registrations, and final invoice for resale, insurance, and future service.