Questions to ask before you hire an HVAC contractor in Dallas

Questions to ask

1. Do you hold a Texas TDLR air conditioning and refrigeration contractor license, and can I see the license number?

Why it matters: In Texas, air conditioning and heating work is licensed by the Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation (TDLR). Companies generally operate under an Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Contractor license, and the license class and endorsements determine what size systems and which kinds of work they can take on. Technicians working under that license are generally required to be registered or certified with TDLR as well. Ask for the exact contractor license number, look it up on TDLR’s license search to confirm it is active and in the right class, and ask who the licensed contractor responsible for your job actually is. If the job includes gas piping to a furnace, ask who is licensed to do that part; in Texas, gas piping work can fall under plumbing licensing through the Texas State Board of Plumbing Examiners rather than the HVAC license. Ask for a current liability insurance certificate too.

2. Which technicians on my job hold EPA Section 608 certification, and are they trained on the newer A2L refrigerants?

Why it matters: Anyone who opens a refrigerant circuit needs EPA Section 608 certification. Many newer systems sold since the federal refrigerant transition use A2L refrigerants (such as R-454B or R-32), which have their own handling and installation requirements. Ask who on the crew is certified, whether they have installed the refrigerant your proposed system uses, and how they recover refrigerant from the unit they remove. If your current system still runs on R-22, ask plainly whether repair still makes sense or whether replacement is the honest answer.

3. Will you run a Manual J load calculation for both Dallas summers and winter cold snaps, instead of matching the old unit’s tonnage?

Why it matters: A Manual J (or equivalent) load calculation should account for local design temperatures, insulation, windows, west-facing glass, shading, air leakage, and duct location, for both cooling and heating. Ask to see the results in writing. Oversizing is common: a unit that is too big short-cycles, wears out sooner, and removes less moisture on muggy days, leaving rooms cool but clammy. Undersizing shows up on the hottest afternoons and the coldest nights. Ask how the proposed equipment will keep up during a 100-degree week and during a hard freeze, and whether a variable-speed or two-stage system makes sense for your house.

4. Would a heat pump, a dual-fuel system, or AC with a gas furnace fit my house, and how will it heat during a hard freeze?

Why it matters: Many Dallas homes pair central air with a gas furnace, but heat pumps and dual-fuel systems (a heat pump with a gas furnace as backup) are common alternatives. The freeze is the part to press on. Ask how the proposed heat pump performs at low outdoor temperatures, how much backup electric heat strip capacity it has and what that does to your electric bill and panel load, and whether a cold-climate model or dual-fuel setup is worth it for your home. If you keep gas, ask how the furnace will be set up and what happens to the gas line if you switch away from it. A good contractor should explain operating costs under your electricity plan and gas rates, and be wary of anyone who pushes one answer without looking at your home.

5. What will you check on the attic furnace or air handler, ducts, venting, and condensate drain, including the secondary pan and shutoff switch?

Why it matters: In many Dallas–Fort Worth homes, the furnace or air handler and most ductwork sit in an attic that can get extremely hot in summer. Ask whether they will inspect and pressure-test the ducts and what sealing, insulation, or repair they recommend, since leaky attic ducts waste cooling and can pull in hot, dusty air. For a gas furnace, ask how they will check the flue and combustion venting, test for gas leaks and carbon monoxide, and confirm you have working CO alarms. For condensate, ask how the primary drain is routed and cleared, whether there is a secondary drain pan with a float or overflow shutoff switch, and how they will keep the drain from clogging; an overflowing pan above a ceiling is a common and preventable water-damage call. In older homes, ask how they handle duct wrap or materials that could contain asbestos; suspect material should be tested before anyone disturbs it.

6. Who pulls the permit with the City of Dallas or my local building department, and is the final inspection included?

Why it matters: Replacing an air conditioner, heat pump, or furnace often requires a mechanical permit, and new electrical or gas work may need its own permits. Inside city limits, permits go through the City of Dallas Development Services department; Plano, Frisco, Richardson, Garland, Irving, McKinney, Fort Worth, and other area cities run their own building departments, and unincorporated areas follow county rules. Ask who pulls the permit, who schedules the inspection, and whether those fees are in the quote. If you live in an HOA, ask whether unit placement or screening needs approval. A discount for skipping the permit shifts the risk to you at resale and in any insurance claim.

7. How will you protect the outdoor unit from hail, wind, and a settling pad?

Why it matters: North Texas spring storms can bring large hail and damaging winds, and hail can flatten the thin aluminum fins on a condenser coil and cut its efficiency. Ask whether a hail guard or protective placement makes sense for your unit and whether it would restrict airflow, how the unit will be anchored, and whether they recommend surge protection for storm-season power hits. Expansive clay soils across the metro can make a condenser pad sink or tilt over time, which can strain refrigerant lines; ask what pad they use, how they level it, and how they route and support the line set. If storm damage leads to an insurance claim, document it, call your insurer first, and be cautious with crews that knock on doors after a hailstorm; verify the TDLR license either way.

8. How will you handle filtration and indoor air quality, and where will the filter go?

Why it matters: Dallas has heavy spring and fall pollen seasons and ozone-alert days in summer, and attic ducts can pull in dust if they leak. Ask what filter rating (such as MERV) the system can handle without choking airflow, whether a media filter cabinet makes sense, and where the filter will be located; a filter you have to climb into a hot attic to change is one that rarely gets changed. Ask what they recommend for humidity on muggy days too. A good contractor should measure static pressure and airflow before selling add-ons like UV lights or air purifiers, and explain what each costs to run and maintain.

9. Which utility or efficiency programs might apply, and will you handle the paperwork?

Why it matters: In much of the Dallas area, Oncor delivers electricity while you buy power from a retail electric provider you choose, and Atmos Energy is the natural gas utility for many homes. Efficiency incentives may come through Oncor, your provider, the gas utility, or not at all, and those programs change. Federal tax credits for home energy equipment have also changed recently, so do not rely on a contractor’s summary. Ask which programs the contractor participates in, whether eligibility depends on specific equipment ratings (such as SEER2, HSPF2, or furnace AFUE), and who submits the application. Get any promised rebate amount in writing as an estimate, not a guarantee, and verify current rules directly with the program.

10. What does the written estimate include: model numbers, duct and drain work, gas and electrical work, disposal, and a labor warranty?

Why it matters: A good quote lists the exact indoor and outdoor model numbers, efficiency ratings, thermostat, line set, pad, condensate drain and secondary pan work, any duct repair or sealing, any gas line or venting changes, any electrical upgrades (breaker, disconnect, or panel work for heat strips or a heat pump), permit fees, and disposal of the old equipment. Ask how they handle surprises like a corroded line set, a rusted drain pan, an undersized flue, or tight attic access, and require a stop-and-call change-order process before extra work. Get the manufacturer warranty and the contractor’s labor warranty in writing separately, and confirm who registers the equipment so the manufacturer warranty applies.

11. How do you handle no-cooling calls in heat waves and no-heat calls in freezes, and can you give me recent Dallas-area references?

Why it matters: Losing air conditioning during a Dallas heat wave, or heat during a hard freeze, can quickly become a health and safety issue, especially for older adults, young children, and pets, and every HVAC company in the metro gets busy at once. Ask what their response time looks like for existing customers during those surges, what after-hours or weekend rates apply, and whether a maintenance plan actually moves you up the list. Ask what pre-season checks they do before summer and before winter. Then ask for two or three recent local references for similar jobs and housing types. References tell you about punctuality, cleanup, and whether the system was set up right the first time, which star ratings alone often miss.

Red flags

• Quotes a replacement size over the phone or by matching the old unit, with no load calculation for heating and cooling.
• Cannot give you a Texas TDLR contractor license number you can verify, or the license class does not cover your job.
• Offers a lower price to skip the permit or the inspection.
• Vague about which refrigerant the new system uses or who on the crew is EPA 608 certified.
• Pitches a heat pump without explaining backup heat, freeze performance, or what the heat strips need from your electrical panel.
• Ignores furnace venting, carbon monoxide checks, or the condensate drain, secondary pan, and overflow switch on an attic unit.
• Storm-chaser pressure after a hailstorm: door-to-door crews, “sign tonight” deals, or offers to handle your insurance claim for you.
• No model numbers, no duct, drain, gas, or electrical scope, and no written labor warranty on the estimate.
• Promises a specific rebate or tax credit as guaranteed, or asks you to sign over a rebate you have not verified.

Next-step checklist

• Verify each contractor’s license status and class on the Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation (TDLR) license search.
• Get at least two written quotes for the same scope, with model numbers, efficiency ratings, and duct, drain, gas, and electrical work listed.
• Ask each contractor to share their load calculation and explain how the system will handle both summer peaks and a hard freeze.
• Confirm your jurisdiction (City of Dallas, another area city, or the county) and who pulls the permit and schedules the inspection; check HOA rules if they apply.
• Make sure you have working carbon monoxide alarms if you have any gas appliances, and ask for a combustion and venting check on a gas furnace.
• Ask about the condenser pad, anchoring, hail protection, and surge protection.
• Check current incentives directly with Oncor, your retail electric provider, Atmos Energy, or the program administrator before you sign.
• Agree in writing on unit placement, filter location, warranty terms, payment schedule, and a stop-and-call change-order process.
• Keep the permit record, warranty registrations, and final invoice for resale and future service.