Questions to ask
1. What exact product are you quoting — brand, collection, thickness, wear layer, and underlayment — not just “LVP” or “hardwood”?
Why it matters: Category labels hide huge quality gaps. Ask for manufacturer, collection/SKU, plank thickness, wear-layer mils (for vinyl), species and grade (for wood), and whether underlayment is included or required by the warranty. A bid that only says “premium waterproof floor” is hard to compare, hard to reorder for repairs, and easy to bait-and-switch on install day.
2. Will you moisture-test the slab or subfloor, and what readings stop the install?
Why it matters: Concrete slabs and below-grade rooms can trap vapor that cups wood, softens adhesives, and voids warranties. Ask which test method they use (in-situ RH, calcium chloride, wood moisture meter), what numbers are acceptable for your product, and who pays if readings fail after materials are already on site. “It feels dry” is not a moisture plan.
3. What’s included in subfloor prep — leveling, patching, fastening squeaks, and removing old flooring?
Why it matters: Most callbacks start under the floor: soft spots, height transitions, and telegraphing seams. Ask how they check flatness (and to what tolerance), whether patch/self-leveler is in the base price or by the bag, who removes existing carpet/tile/glue, and how they handle asbestos-era mastics on older homes. A low install rate that excludes prep is not a low job cost.
4. Do you acclimate materials on site, and for how long under what conditions?
Why it matters: Wood and some floating floors need time to stabilize to room temperature and humidity before install. Ask where cartons sit (not in a garage in July), how long they wait, and whether HVAC must be running first. Skipping acclimation is a common path to gaps, peaking, and “settling” excuses after the crew is gone.
5. Is this glue-down, nail/staple, floating, or click-lock — and why for my rooms?
Why it matters: Method has to match the product warranty and the subfloor. Floating floors need expansion gaps and the right underlayment; glue-downs need the right adhesive and open time; nail-downs need a suitable wood subfloor. Ask them to explain the choice for each area (kitchen vs stairs vs basement), not one method for the whole house by default.
6. How do you handle transitions, stairs, and door clearances — and is trim/shoe molding in the quote?
Why it matters: Flooring jobs look unfinished when reducers, T-moldings, stair nosings, and undercut jambs are afterthoughts. Ask who supplies transitions, whether existing baseboards are removed or shoe is added, and how they deal with doors that won’t clear a thicker floor. Get stair scope as its own line if stairs are included — they are often where skill gaps show first.
7. What’s the written price cover — materials, waste factor, labor, haul-away, furniture moving, and moisture barrier?
Why it matters: Square-footage ads often omit waste (cuts/pattern match), furniture moving, old-floor disposal, or vapor barrier. Ask for measured square footage vs ordered quantity, the waste percentage they assume, and what happens if the layout needs more. Confirm whether moving appliances or heavy furniture is included or your job before install day.
8. Who actually installs — your employees or subcontractors — and who warrants the labor?
Why it matters: Big-box and showroom sales often subcontract install; when seams fail, the store and the crew can point at each other. Ask who will be on site, who supervises, and whether labor warranty comes from the installer you hired. Get product and labor warranties in writing with lengths, what’s excluded (pets, water events, improper cleaning), and how to file a claim.
9. Are you following the manufacturer’s install instructions, and will that keep the product warranty valid?
Why it matters: Many “lifetime” product warranties require specific underlayment, adhesive, expansion gaps, and approved subfloors. Ask them to confirm the install method is approved for your SKU and climate, and whether they’ll leave leftover cartons labeled for future repairs. An installer who “always does it this way” against the instructions can quietly void your coverage.
10. What’s the schedule, how long will rooms be unusable, and what’s the plan for dust and occupied homes?
Why it matters: Tear-out and cut dust travel; glue-downs need cure time before heavy traffic. Ask for start date, days on site, which rooms go first, overnight access, and whether you should plan to be out. For older homes with possible lead paint on trim work, ask how they contain dust — especially if baseboards are being removed or doors undercut.
11. What does final walkthrough include, and how are punch-list fixes handled?
Why it matters: Check seams, clicks, edge gaps, transition heights, stair nosings, and leftover material before final payment. Ask how soon they’ll return for squeaks, peaking, or damaged planks found after furniture is back. A crew that wants full payment before you can inspect in daylight is asking you to fund their callbacks out of pocket.
Red flags
- Won’t name brand/collection/SKU, or switches product after deposit without a new written quote.
- Skips moisture testing on slabs or below-grade rooms, or shrugs at manufacturer moisture limits.
- “Prep is extra” with no flatness standard, or cash-only deposit before materials are ordered.
- No written labor warranty, or “the manufacturer covers everything” with no install paperwork.
- Pressure to buy remnant lots or open boxes with no dye-lot matching plan for repairs.
- Door-to-door “we’re in the neighborhood” pricing that expires today and skips site measure.
Next-step checklist
- Note rooms, approximate square footage, current floor type, and any pet/water/sun issues before quotes.
- Get at least two comparable bids with the same product SKU, underlayment, and prep assumptions.
- Verify license/insurance where your city or state requires it for flooring or remodeling work.
- Confirm deposit timing (ideally tied to material order) and final balance after walkthrough.
- Keep leftover planks/boxes labeled by dye lot; photograph subfloor and moisture readings if provided.
- Walk the floor in daylight after furniture is back — early peaking, gaps, or soft spots are easier under warranty.