Questions to ask
1. Are you licensed for fence or contractor work in my city or state, and will you show proof of liability insurance and workers’ compensation before you dig?
Why it matters: Fence installs involve digging near utilities, heavy posts, and crews on your property. Ask for a current certificate of insurance with liability coverage high enough for home and landscape damage, plus workers’ comp so an injured worker does not become your claim. A cash “we’ll be done by Friday” outfit with no paperwork leaves you owning the accident and any utility strike.
2. Which fence type are you quoting — wood, vinyl, chain-link, aluminum, or composite — and what grade of materials, posts, and fasteners are in the written scope?
Why it matters: “Privacy fence” is not a spec. Ask for species or grade (e.g. pressure-treated pine vs cedar), vinyl thickness and wind rating, chain-link gauge and coating, aluminum wall thickness, or composite brand and warranty. Posts, concrete, rails, and hardware should be line-itemed. A low bid that switches to thin pickets, undersized posts, or residential-grade vinyl in a high-wind yard fails in a few seasons.
3. How will you confirm the property line — survey, pins, or my plot plan — and who handles HOA, setback, and permit requirements?
Why it matters: A fence a foot over the neighbor’s line can mean tear-out, lawsuits, or a forced move. Ask whether they will locate existing survey pins, require a new survey when boundaries are unclear, and who pulls the building permit and HOA approval. “We’ll put it where the old fence was” is not proof of the legal line — especially if the old fence was already wrong.
4. Will you call 811 (or the local utility-locate service) before digging post holes — and what happens if a line is unmarked?
Why it matters: Post-hole diggers and augers hit gas, electric, fiber, and irrigation. Ask whether locates are scheduled before any digging, how long they wait for marks, and who pays if they strike a marked or unmarked line. A crew that starts augering the morning you signed without a locate is gambling with your yard and an emergency utility bill.
5. How deep and wide are post holes, what concrete mix do you use, and do you account for frost line and soil type?
Why it matters: Shallow posts heave, lean, and blow over. Ask for hole depth relative to your frost line (or local code), diameter, gravel base vs full concrete, and whether corner and gate posts get deeper or larger footings. “Two feet deep everywhere” in a freeze-thaw climate is a red flag; so is dry-packing without enough concrete around load-bearing posts.
6. Who digs the holes, sets posts, and hangs panels or fabric — your employees or subcontractors — and is teardown of the old fence included?
Why it matters: Some companies sell and schedule; another crew digs and a third hangs gates. Ask who shows up, whether diggers and installers are on their workers’ comp policy, and whether removal, haul-away, and stump/root clearing around the line are in the price. A quote that assumes “you clear the line” can double when brush, concrete footings, or buried debris appear.
7. What is included for gates — width, hardware grade, latch type, and whether the gate is framed and hung plumb with matching posts?
Why it matters: Gates fail first: sagging, dragging, cheap hinges, and latch hardware that rusts or binds. Ask for gate width (single vs double), hinge and latch brand or grade, whether gate posts are heavier, and whether hardware is stainless or coated for your climate. A beautiful run of fence with a wobbly gate becomes the daily annoyance you paid to avoid.
8. What warranty covers wood rot, vinyl warp or crack, wind damage, and workmanship — and what voids it?
Why it matters: Manufacturer material warranties and installer workmanship warranties are different. Ask what is covered for posts, rails, panels, and gates; whether wind or storm events are excluded; and whether staining, ground contact, or HOA-required finishes affect wood warranties. Get the warranting company’s name on the invoice — not just a salesperson’s verbal “lifetime.”
9. How are payments staged — deposit, materials, completion — and when is final payment due relative to punch list and cleanup?
Why it matters: Large cash deposits before materials arrive, or full payment before gates hang true and debris is hauled, hand them your leverage. Ask for a written schedule tied to milestones (materials on site, posts set, panels complete, punch list done). Keep a reasonable final amount until the fence is straight, gates swing, and the site is cleaned.
10. What cleanup and haul-away is included — old fence, dirt spoils, concrete bags, packaging — and who restores disturbed lawn or irrigation?
Why it matters: Digging leaves spoils; teardown leaves boards and concrete chunks. Ask whether haul-away and dump fees are in the quote, whether they backfill and rough-grade, and who repairs cut irrigation or sod. A low install bid that leaves a debris pile and open trenches is not finished work.
11. Will the written quote list linear feet, height, style, both sides finished or not, and any grade or slope extras?
Why it matters: Slopes, stepped vs racked panels, double-sided “good neighbor” boards, and tall privacy sections change labor and material cost. Ask for measured linear feet, height, style name or drawing, and whether grade changes are included or billed as extras. Vague “about 120 feet of privacy fence” invites change orders once the crew sees the hill.
Red flags
- Cash-only with no license, insurance certificate, or written scope.
- Refuses a survey or pin check when the boundary is disputed or unclear — “we’ll match the old fence” only.
- Starts digging post holes without an 811/utility locate.
- Posts set well above frost line, dry-packed with little or no concrete, or undersized corner/gate posts.
- Pressure to pay a large deposit before materials arrive, or full payment before gates and cleanup are done.
- Vague material specs (“nice vinyl” / “good wood”) with no grade, gauge, or brand on the quote.
- Door-knock specials with out-of-area plates and urgency to “sign today before the crew leaves town.”
Next-step checklist
- Mark approximate line, desired height/style, and gate locations; photo the yard and any existing fence or slope.
- Find survey pins or order a survey if the boundary is unclear; check HOA rules and permit/setback requirements.
- Get at least two written quotes with the same assumed scope (material grade, linear feet, height, gates, teardown, haul-away).
- Verify licensing where required, plus liability insurance and workers’ compensation certificates.
- Confirm 811 will be called before digging, and that post depth matches frost line / local code.
- Hold final payment until the fence is plumb, gates work, punch list is done, and debris is hauled — keep the invoice and insurance certs.