Questions to ask
1. Are you CSIA-, NFI-, or equivalently certified, and who will actually be on my roof?
Why it matters: Chimney work mixes heights, combustion safety, and building codes. Ask for company and technician credentials you can verify (CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep, NFI certifications, or strong local licensing), and whether the certified tech leads the job or only the salesperson. A name on a truck without a named tech on site is a soft answer.
2. Will this visit be a Level 1, 2, or 3 inspection — and what does each include for my situation?
Why it matters: Industry practice (NFPA 211) tiers inspections: Level 1 is a basic readily accessible check often paired with a sweep; Level 2 adds accessible areas and is common after a home sale, weather event, or fuel change; Level 3 may involve destructive access when a serious hazard is suspected. Ask which level they recommend and why — and get it in writing before they upsell mid-job.
3. Do you use a chimney camera / video scan, and will I see the recording or stills?
Why it matters: A brush alone cannot show cracked tiles, gaps in the liner, or heavy glaze creosote above the smoke chamber. Ask whether video or photos are standard for your appointment, whether you get a copy, and how they explain findings in plain language. “Trust us, it looked fine” without visuals is how expensive surprises appear next season.
4. What type of fuel and appliance am I using, and how does that change the cleaning?
Why it matters: Wood, gas, pellets, and oil leave different deposits and need different tools and intervals. Tell them what you burn and how often; ask how they clean for that fuel and whether they check the connector pipe, damper, and chimney cap. A one-size “fireplace special” that ignores a wood-stove insert or gas log set is a cut corner.
5. How do you contain soot and dust — interior protection, attic/chase access, and cleanup?
Why it matters: Creosote and ash migrate into living spaces when containment is sloppy. Ask about drop cloths, negative air or vacuum systems rated for fine soot, whether they open the chase or attic, and who cleans up afterward. If they shrug at mess or say “a little dust is normal,” picture your HVAC return filters a week later.
6. What’s included in the written price — sweep only, inspection level, cap, or repairs?
Why it matters: Low ball “chimney cleaning” ads often exclude camera inspection, smoke tests, or any masonry work. Get a written scope: which flues, inspection level, creosote removal standard, chimney cap check, and whether animal nests or damper repair are extra. Agree that non-emergency extras need your OK with an updated quote before work expands.
7. Are you licensed and insured for chimney work (and roof access), and can I see certificates?
Why it matters: Requirements vary by state and city — contractor licenses, specialty registrations, or business licenses may apply. Ask for general liability and workers’ comp certificates. Uninsured crews on a steep roof or with open-flame smoke tests are your problem if someone falls or a spark starts a roof fire.
8. If you find damage, how do you separate cleaning from repair — liners, crowns, flashing, caps?
Why it matters: Sweeping is not the same as installing a stainless liner, rebuilding a crown, or reflashing a chimney. Ask who performs repairs, whether they self-perform or refer, and how they prioritize safety shutdowns vs optional upgrades. Companies that turn every visit into an urgent full rebuild make it hard to get a second opinion.
9. How often should my system be swept, and what creosote stage are you seeing?
Why it matters: Many wood systems need at least annual inspection; heavy use or wet wood can need more. Ask them to describe creosote stage (flaky, sticky, or glazed) and whether chemical treatment or mechanical removal is appropriate. Vague “come back every fall” without findings doesn’t help you budget or burn safer wood.
10. Will you check the chimney cap, spark arrestor, flashing, and exterior crown while you’re up there?
Why it matters: Water entry and animals often start above the flue. A thorough visit notes missing or rusted caps, damaged spark screens, cracked crowns, and obvious flashing gaps — even if repair is a separate trade. If they never leave the living room and only brush from below, they can miss the problems that drive the next leak.
11. What report do I get when you’re done, and what would make you tell me not to burn tonight?
Why it matters: You want a written or emailed summary: inspection level, photos, creosote condition, defects, and clear “safe to use / not safe to use” guidance. Ask what conditions trigger an immediate stop-burn recommendation (blocked flue, cracked liner, heavy glaze, CO risk). Walking away with only a verbal “you’re good” leaves you exposed if something fails later.
Red flags
- No certification, no named tech, or refuses to show insurance.
- “Cleaning special” with no written scope, then pressure for a same-day liner or rebuild.
- No camera or photos, and can’t describe creosote stage or flue condition.
- Leaves heavy soot through the house or skips containment and cleanup.
- Door-to-door after a storm or wildfire with only a phone number and unmarked van.
- Guarantees your insurance will pay a full rebuild before anyone has inspected or adjusted a claim.
Next-step checklist
- Note fuel type, last sweep date, and any smoke, odor, or draft problems before they arrive.
- Confirm certification, insurance certificates, and which inspection level is included in the price.
- Ask for camera findings or photos and a written report before approving repairs.
- Get a second opinion on expensive liner, crown, or rebuild quotes when time allows.
- Burn seasoned wood (or follow gas/pellet manufacturer guidance) and schedule the next inspection before heavy season.
- Install and test CO alarms near sleeping areas — chimney issues and combustion appliances both matter.